The Roast Whites: Chenin, Riesling & Pinot Gris

Somewhere along the way we all agreed that heavy food needs heavy red wine. It is the most expensive mistake on the average holiday table. Fat and salt want acid, not tannin. Three grapes do that better than anything else in wine, and we are pouring each of them twice: once at its classic reference point and once pushed somewhere stranger, so you can taste exactly what changed and why. Two Chenins show what lees and skin contact do to the same grape. Two Rieslings put slate against slate. Two Pinot Gris set old-world restraint next to something raised in clay. Two weeks before Thanksgiving, which is not an accident. All six are available to take home when we finish, so the two that convinced you can be on your own table. You will leave with the nerve to pour white at a table full of people expecting Cabernet.