A hearty, rustic, but old-school style of Lambrusco made from one of the more punchy grape varieties in the family called Grasparossa. Don’t get it twisted — real Lambrusco is dry; it should be refermented inside the bottle, not injected with CO2; it’s far more characterful than what we’ve been drinking in cheerful Italian-American restaurants for decades. Don’t look for it just for bubbles, either; it’s meant to pair with main dishes. Il Folicello is from around Modena, where it’s a touch warmer; as such this wine has darker fruit, dried herbs, and a note of the rocky, limey soils on which it’s grown.